When I write pieces that sum up an entire day of parades usually I start from the first runway show I’ve seen to get then to the last and close the piece with the catchphrase that leave my readers, at least I hope, happy and satisfied with what I wrote. Not today, today inevitably must end, or almost.
I begin this piece talking about Prada, which has deliberately kept the story of her fashion with autumn/inverno2014-2015. The same scene: a theater imagined, this time enriched by sharp, angular voice orchestra and Barbara Sukova. Spiky like intelligence of designers and sharp as the collection brought to the scene. It starts with step-through dresses woolens, more like sweaters to wear when you have a fever and it’s raining outside. The Lady Prada is the details so messy and dirty so on coats instead of edges and seams shoves Sheepskin strips long and uneven, and even when you think you see clean coats, they appeared on the catwalk outfits and strong colors and mistaken as gold, silver, red and Brown.
The reference to German cinema degli anni ‘ 70 is obvious, but Prada manages to forget this and tells us about his posh hazard, its yet another job satisfaction, putting everyone in a position of thinking how a dress can say all that and more. Andrea Encounters is one of those young designers who would you like to see parading every day with a collection that is always new and surprising as it were the first. For next winter has sent out a tenacious woman, seductive and superficially sophisticated. The colors are subdued at the beginning to turn out in the end more alive and three-dimensional as orange.
From Fendi the collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi suggests more that haute couture to pret-à-porter in Milan.
On the catwalk a series of dresses made of felt, like the covers of mesh networks, military dormitories filled with basketball courts. The materials are luxurious: crocodile, mink and Beaver are mixed together, as if they were silk, demonstrating a lightness and a versatility that only Italian craftsmen know how to do. At the end, surprise after surprise comes on the catwalk a doll, fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, miniature built only with polychrome carved up to make perfect furs even details like the tie and sunglasses. Roberto Cavalli for his just Cavalli line retrieves all art Rennaissance and revisits with a dose of rock and glamorous throws it on short dresses and sweaters in warm and soft wool. Ennio Capasa sends down heels his woman and he suggests for next winter wear creepers or moccasins from male sports leaders from the air to match them to memory and heart. White, black and violet are the colors.
Closes the second day Moschino fashion that sees the debut of Jeremy Scott to the creative direction of the brand. On the catwalk irreverence and joy of one of the best brands of Italian landscape. The inspiration is modern, we talk about fast food and how you consume certain meals. Tailored suits and leather jackets reminiscent of the great history of this brand new designer aims to go even higher with this autumn/winter 2014-2015.