The Secrets of The Tailored Shirt

For you go like a glove, this piece of the male wardrobe is a luxury that only a few tailors to ensure sustainability. Investigation in these houses of high production.

To make a tailored shirt is also delicious than painful experience. Because, if in ready-to-wear, you just ask your collar size and sometimes the length of your arms, the same approach tailor-made requires you to spend two hours in the hands of a tailor, who toisera in detail more than 20 points of your anatomy. Experience that would rather persuade the first Brad Pitt came it is actually closer to Quasimodo. “We can do nothing, explains, there is no such thing as a bit fatalistic, Jean Grimbert, Director of home Arnys, the perfect man.” We all have one shoulder higher than another imperceptibly longer arm, a little skinny neck or its opposite, a way of us hold more or less arched… and it’s good to compensate for this sum of small anomalies that those who have tasted the joys of the shirt can then without.” The gentleman knows what he’s talking about. His father, Leon, was blouse, her grandfather Jankel was also. According, the blog specializes in the shirt “largely”, it would be one of seven specialists of the subject in France, and it can boast that, in any case, be taken regularly, in his store in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, François Mitterrand,Yves Saint Laurentor François Fillon measures to make them his famous shirts.

Buttonholes, a detail that fans appreciate particularly

The budget for one of these beauties in cotton, silk, linen or Kashmir? Not less than 550 euros. A luxury permanent, since the manufacturer puts aside a bit of fabric in your coupon for repairs can wear the neck or wrists, but a sacred investment still! Not to mention that you’ll have to wait. At Arnys, once past two hours of choice of fabrics, shapes and measurements under the expert eye of Michel Korn, assigned to the clerk tailor, you come back to try the painting, during you still on your body, and then wait two weeks so that tourangeaux workshops of the House finally deliver the object of delight.What makes a tailored shirt? “Has the delicacy of the work, says Jean Grimbert. The collar, flaps, the gorges of the handle, the rolling of edges, hem to points tight: everything is mounted and sewn by hand. It goes same for buttonholes, a detail that lovers especially appreciate and realize our touronian workers with such precision that they are real embroideries!”

A locker room of insiders… until the initials

About embroidery, straight, devoted such a budget to this room to his locker room has custom to embroider his initials. If the french tailors are a little “Tomcat” the American custom of affix on the sleeves, they usually advise to place them on the left, a little below the chest, at the height of the third button. The ultimate in chic being for them to embroider way almost incognito on a pan of the shirt. At Smalto, who also owns a workshop of bespoke shirts (allow 750 euros for a model city and three weeks), we offer you, through an extension of 80 euros, you embroider emblem or coat of arms here where you want. However, it is not certain that your Crown of Viscount will be in best place on your chest… At Ralph Lauren, who has, in his new store on Boulevard Saint-Germain, in a fitting room to achieve semi-mesure shirts (Italian manufacturing, seven weeks of delay, less choice in tissue or cuts, but rates from 300 euros…), one of the features is to remove the logo of a polo player who is usually on the chest.

There are other luxury homes

Evidence of the enthusiasm for this piece of the menswear, the Zillitailor, which this year celebrates its 40 years, has opened a tailored shirt service in three of its shops in the world: London, New York and Paris. She has done the acquisition a few months ago of a workshop in Bergamo, in Italy, where orders are finalized. Here, the process is a little different. All the necessary measurements are taken on the client, then this one is invited to endorse a model among the five “shirts witnesses”, more or less sport, sprung or dressed, which corresponds to its size in ready-to-wear. Is that then the tailor is engaged in a game of needles and sketch, adding a little ease to the chest, suggesting which of the 9 passes or of 13 forms of wrist should be at best up to predict half a centimeter and more on the sleeve of the man accustomed to large watches. It will take then to choose among more than 300 coupons of subtle variations of weaving and quality fabric. For what cotton crack, for example? The Giza 45-very long fiber, from the delta of the Nile, or the Sea Island to the touch incomparably silky and came in right line plantations of Barbados or the Jamaica. On the finally chosen shirt, and ten days after the fitting, Zilli is strong to deliver his book. The rate of the first models to the pretty Australian mother-of-Pearl buttons, is here charged 650 euros. But you always have the option to replace the Pearl by buttons in gold or even precious stones… Especially if you won the lottery.

NODUS and stitched flowers 

For those who seek not made-to-measure but audacity, offers an incredible range of shirts. What strikes home this season, is the profusion of flowers, printed or embroidered, who come heckle cuts of their 280 models. Bright colors, of fantasy in print: a makeover for the classic chemiserie bath. Our favorite? The Miami series. Shirts classic cut satin white cotton, but with collars and cuffs of color living and small Garland of flowers embroidered on one of the spikes of the neckline. Very couture… and for 79 euros.